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Cape Breton Seasons

Spring

Spring comes late to the west coast of Cape Breton on account of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence is like a shallow sea that can be packed with sea ice anywhere from January through the end of April. That pushes the seasons backa few weeks more than in other parts of Nova Scotia. March and April are still late winter but the days are lengthening and the sunsets are swinging back out over the water. There's still a good chance of blizzards and snow squalls and in the early spring the ice will come and go depending on the wind, temps, and currents. April thaws can be muddy but the trails are passable for much of the month.

In May the buds begin to swell and are ready to burst near the end of the month. Lobster season opens the first of May except for the odd year when ice still socks in the bay. One of my favorite spring sounds is waking up to the muffled lub-dub-dub of lobsterboats fishing just below the cliffs in the early morning. June begins with buds bursting and the hardwood slopes are blushing with pastel greens, peaches, and reds so that almost every tree is its own color. Spring migrant birds which began in May become more plentiful throughout June, which is prime month for birders as the shrubs and hardwoods are just filling out and visibility is high. By June the ice is long gone and whales have moved into the gulf, many for the capelin running in the warming water and by mid June the whale tours are making several trips a day up and down the coast.

Visitors should bring layered clothing and all-weather gear. Early spring (March) you might also want to bring snowshoes in case of a late blizzard. Waterproof boots are a must during mud season and the spring rains.

Nearly tame spring partridge (ruffed gouse) drum on the slopes sounding like distant lawnmowers.

 

Summer

By early July the gulf temps are already climbing toward 70ºF and the swimming season has arrived. The warm waters of the shallow Gulf of St Lawrence attract tropical fish like tuna, swordfish, and jellyfish. Sunsets are straight off the land and the Cabot trail and the Park is alive with tourists, but still uncongested compared to American or European parks. The Ceilidh (kay-lee) circuit of Celtic Music is in full swing as well. Snow Crab season begins the middle of July and runs for a month or more while fishermen catch their quotas. Snow Crab can be bought right off the docks to bring home for your own crab boil, and are a real treat fresh. Snow crab and or lobster dinners are available much of the year in local restaurants. Bugs can be a nuisance anytime daylight temps are above 50º, primarily mosquitoes or black flies, and especially on days without a breeze so bring bug dope. By mid-August summer has peaked and later in the month the early migrants, like the local cliff swallows, have already started to move south. Summer daytime temps can range from the 50s to the high 80s.

Bring bathing suits, footwear that you can get wet is also recommended for swimming off the rocky beaches, and crossing streams and small rivers along the trails.

The Pleasant Bay boat parade on Canada Day (July 1) kicks off the summer season.

 

Fall

Summer lingers well into September, the shallow sea of the Gulf of St Lawrence that was frozen for much of the winter is still warm and swimmable anytime the surf is mild and the warm water moderates the the season. The sea has begun cooling and the whales have mostly left by the end of September. Arctic migrant birds, especially raptors, are frequently sighted though a few Eagles linger year-round along with crows and ravens, crossbills and other snowbirds. After the equinox the days are getting shorter, the ocean chillier, and the sun is lower and setting further down the coast and not straight off the shore. Mid October the waterline is drained to prevent overnight freezing. In November storms are becoming more frequent and the intense NW winds often rage for days. It's a time to fire up the woodstove, and cosy up to a book in the lookout with a warm cuppa.

Windbreakers, warm and dry footwear, and layered clothing are a must. Moose hunting season is usually the tail end September into the first 2 weeks of October. Wear loud clothing on the trails or hike the National Park trails where hunting isn't allowed.

The Lookout (left) from atop Blackbrook Mountain about a mile away, the hardwood slopes begin coloring up late September and peak in early October.


Winter

In Cape Breton winter is the longest season by far. Winds and squalls like you wouldn't believe alternate with frigid but sunny arctic highs. By the end of November the days are quite short and cold, and the days are made shorter by the sun having to climb over the mountains in the east. Snow squalls and blizzards can happen anytime from mid-November onward. In my experience, in January and February the weather settles some as arctic highs become the ruling pattern punctuated by less frequent but still intense storms. The Gulf ice moves in anytime after New Years, driven by the northwesterlies onto the shore at the base of the cliffs where it can pile up in pressure ridges. Seals pup along the shore ice in February and are often preyed upon by coyote, lynx and bobcat. Changing winds coming over the highlands from the Atlantic side can drive the ice offshore one day and back the next, or leave it riddled with leads and rivers of open water. Snow can pile up to the eaves of houses and drift thick in the spruce, though the yard around the cabin is often swept clear by the offshore winds.

Winter visitors should bring extra layers for outdoor activities and waterproof footwear, and stock plenty of supplies in case you get snowed in for a few days. Snowshoes are a good idea Dec-March to be sure you can get up the spruce lane up to your car easily if more than a foot accumulates. Fortunately the snowplows have no place to turn until beyond my parking lot which keeps the road pretty clear all winter and makes escape possible soon after even the worst blizzards. Winter visitors should have all-wheel drive vehicles for traveling the local roads.

The winter yard and the east march of highlands

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